n 25 years of visiting India I have never had a hotel experience like this. There are so many fantastic places to stay in India but The Bangala is more than just an impeccable boutique hotel. The owner, Mrs. Meenakshi, is passionate about preserving the Chettiar houses in the area and has managed to restore some, persuade other owners to restore theirs and open them up to visitors. The architecture is gorgeous and unique and, incredibly, not very well known in places like Delhi and Bombay. When we told our Indian friends where we had been, they gave us blank looks. Clearly, The Bangala is probably not a place you will read about in guidebooks or hear about from friends (though it has had glowing writeups in Conde Nast Traveler and Travel & Leisure.) It's about two hours from Madurai airport so is off the beaten track but is very much worth a visit. The houses and peaceful villages of Chettiar also make a nice change from the magnificent temples of Tamil Nadu.
Mrs. Meenakshi's eye for detail is evident everywhere. The hotel is an old gentlemen's club which has been tastefully redone. The rooms are large and the bathrooms are perfect, with brand new showers, elegant Indian soaps and pretty local baskets. There is a large verandah where you can sit and relax and there is a well-stocked library with novels left behind by guests and also books about the region and its architecture. The wi-fi works and there is a gift shop with all sorts of local crafts that are far nicer than you would fine in the average hotel store.
Perhaps the best part about the hotel is the incredible food. Mrs. Meenakshi's family cook--who she has known for decades--has taken charge of the kitchen and adapted Chettiar recipes for Western tastes (ie made them a bit less spicy). The food was phenomenal, including peppery chicken, quail, shrimp curry and wonderful breads. Portions are huge.
We hired a guide through the hotel and visited some of the Chettiar houses and villages, learned a but about local culture and history. We went shopping on the antiques street (prices vary widely in the different stores) and took home a coffee table book with lots of pictures of the houses we saw. Since getting home, I've been showing the book to various friends and urging them to visit. In short, we recommend Hotel Bangala to anyone interested in architecture, Indian culture, regional food and historical sites.
- Bangala Hotel Karaikudi

