The Yamaichi Bekkan is a simple Japanese Inn located opposite the pier where the JR and Hiroden ferries arrive. The owner, Shinko-san, offers an extremely warm welcome. She speaks good basic English and makes you feel part of the family. As owner of specialist Japan travel company InsideJapan Tours, I first visited here in 2003 as part of a trip to find accommodation to recommend on Miyajima. I didn't stay the night on that occasion but Shinko-san sent me away for my late night train back to Kyoto with a delicious Grilled Eel bento.
The inn only has 4 rooms. There are three Japanese style rooms at the front of the inn with a view towards the sea - not as good a sea view as other more upmarket ryokan on the island but certainly a bonus. The Japanese rooms are a good size and have small attached bathrooms. The western style rooms with beds are at the back of the inn and are in my mind not as appealing. However, if you are looking for an affordable bed then this is still a great option.
The restaurant on the ground floor is superb and if you are staying here I highly recommend eating in at least once. A variety of set course meals are available for a range of prices from 3,000 to 7,000 yen. There is also a full a la carte menu. Being Japan and an island location it is not surprising that the fish and seafood is amazing! Do try the oysters especially if you happen to visit when in season (best from October through to the end of February).
What the Yamaichi Bekkan is not is an up-market classic ryokan. It is much more akin to what the Japanese would call a 'minshuku' or 'people's inn'. There is no large communal bath and no hot spring (onsen). Food is served in the small restaurant not in your room. It is a modern building rather than the classic old wooden building that many people imagine a ryokan to be. However, the price reflects this. There are fabulous ryokan on Miyajima but these are out of the budget of many travellers. As one of the most popular tourist destinations in Japan, Miyajima is not a cheap place to stay. However, I feel the Yamaichi offers very good value.
My company has been booking clients into this inn for 8 years and it continues to receive glowing feedback. Shinko is a treasure and the fact that so many reviews we receive mention her by name shows what an interest she takes in every single guest. It seems that some reviewers on TripAdvisor have had experiences of their reservation being lost. I have to say we have NEVER experienced this and my company has made nearly 300 reservations here in the past 4 years. And I have never had a client complain of the inn being dirty or poorly maintained.
So my advice is for any traveller on a fairly tight budget the Yamaichi Bekkan offers an amazing experience. However, if you are looking for a classic ryokan stay then the Iwaso or Jukeiso are perhaps more appropriate. Just be prepared for the significantly higher price tag. Personally I would definitely recommend this inn and would gladly stay here again.
Alastair Donnelly
Director
InsideJapan Tours Ltd.
