Momijiso doesn't look like much from the outside. In fact the exterior is largely taken up by the open-air eatery it also operates. Inside, no elegant foyer awaits, just a simple rather cosy dining area and counter.

However despite these seeming negatives, we enjoyed our stay here due to the very comfortable and well thought out rooms and beautiful, delicious meals!

The service, as expected in a Japanese ryokan, was very good. Do be aware that being late for meals is viewed as something of a discourtesy, and grandma manager-san does appreciate if you can finish all your food!

I was very obligingly picked up from the Miyajima ferry terminal, which I greatly appreciated! and would strongly advise all first-time visitors to do, as the ryokan is not that easy to find especially if laden with luggage. It is quite far up a slope and stairs from the main tourist area of Itsukushima-jinja and the waterfront. But very walkable once the luggage has been off-loaded allowing you to get more oriented:)

Apart from the less than elegant facade, other possible downsides include the lack of onsen, and dinner being served in the common area rather than the individual rooms.

Last but not least, please take note that Momijiso does NOT accept credit cards!!! Even though our credit card number was taken during the booking process... This came as a shock (likely because we did not do our research properly) and was pretty stressful as we did not expect to have to carry around several hundred thousand yen in cash just to pay for lodging. Fortunately there was an atm at the ferry terminal and we didn't have to go all the way back to the mainland to get cash.

Momijiso is a family run ryokan. The current matron, an endearing grandma, is the 4th generation and told me that her fore-fathers had built the place. Although this ryokan is feels somewhat like a budget ryokan compared to Iwaso, the service is superb and you are supporting a local business. Our room was immaculate and looked out on to a pond full of the biggest carps I have ever seen. Grandma has had them for over 35 years.

The ryokan is situated further up the hill than others. It is much easier to call the ryokan for their free pick up (and drop off) from the ferry terminal. We were welcomed with some lovely green tea and maple custard cakes on arrival. We had two meals included, and I highly recommend this as the meals are absolutely exquisite. An impressive sample of local produce and grandma's cooking skills. After dinner we were given a torch and strolled down to check out the torii in the serene evening surrounded by tame deers. If you are on a budget but want to try a ryokan, I highly recommend this ryokan.

We travelled down from Tokyo for an overnight stay. Trip can be done - with time to see Hiroshima - easily. We found it a beautiful and unique experience; something I will remember forever. Also a very Japanese experience. The island itself, was also worth the trip. Make sure you walk down to the Torii Gate after dark (torches provided) to take in the atmosphere without the crowds.

Only one point - I had emailed asking for (and double checking) that I could get a seafood free meal but my dinner had tuna, salmon, raw fish, cooked fish and a prawn! But there was otherwise enough to eat, and the host was so lovely I couldn't hold a grudge.

Expensive! But if you can manage it - go!

We booked this ryokan after reading reviews on Tripadvisor & comparing prices for other ryokans on Miyajima. Momiji-so was distinctly better value than the other places with the only major down side being a lack of any onsen. I was also pretty excited by the photos & description of the grandma/host/landlady.

I am so glad we booked this ryokan. Yes, it is expensive but relatively it's good value for staying on the island. If it's too much money then don't stay on the island! If you're able to splash out a little, then I recommend Momiji-so.

We arrived at the ferry port and I grappled with the payphone and called the number of the ryokan (which was helpfully on a big board in front of the public phone). Even with my diabolically poor Japanese they understood who I was and that we were waiting at the port. It was pouring with rain and it was such a relief to have them come pick us up in their little people carrier and drive us up the wiggly road to the ryokan. It is away from the main hubbub - secluded in the park.

As soon as we were shown to our room the landlady (unbelievably adorable tiny old Japanese lady) brought us some traditional Japanese tea and a traditional Miyajima speciality cake type thing (delicious).

The room was gorgeous. Not very big but with huge windows on two sides overlooking the woods and a koi pond. We then went out for a walk around the mountain, they gave us brollies before we left.

By the time we came back our futons were laid out for us. Very comfortable. We used the family bathroom which was much bigger than the little bath in our room and sentoh style, with a window looking out on to more trees and lovely nature in general. Put on the yukatas that were in the drawer and went to the dining room for our kaseiki dinner.

At first I thought I'd deeply offended them by wearing a yukata to dinner as grandma-san pounced on me and started undoing my belt! Fortunately she was not disrobing me in fury but skillfully adjusting the yukata so I was wearing it properly.

The dinner was amazing. Each part was delicious (we had a similar dinner at another ryokan in Hakone a few days before that didn't even come close to being as good). The Hiroshima beef was especially super-delicious and grandma-san explains what each thing is and encourages you to eat ALL of it (even if it looks like garnish). Be warned though, alcoholic drinks cost extra and the beers are large bottles so one might be enough for 2 people.

We had Japanese breakfast which was ridiculously filling and very tasty. Though such a savoury breakfast is difficult for a European to get used to. You can have Western breakfast if you request it.

When we checked out I'd discovered that they'd cleaned my shoes for me! They gave us a lift with our luggage to the port where we kept our bags in coin lockers while we explored the island some more.

The hospitality was excellent, very warm and very Japanese. Even if you can't stay the night at Miyajima - try the cafe they run during the day. If grandma-san is cooking, you won't be disappointed.