For my wife and I, traveling means getting away from urban life: traffic, cell phones, car alarms and smog, and what better place to get away to, than Playa Zancudo. There are not a lot of options in Zancudo, but we were glad we chose Cabinas Los Cocos. We stayed in the "Teak Cabin" which is managed by Susan and Andrew, but next door to the property. The Teak Cabin is a rustic cabin constructed entirely of gleaming teak on the exterior. It has a large porch, with hammock, table and chairs, a full kitchen, double bed and rather large bathroom. It was a comfortable stay, but the best feature, as with all accommodations in Zancudo, was its proximity to the huge and largely deserted grey sand beach. Swimming is pleasant and safe at Playa Zancudo, even for children, because the Osa Peninsula, across the Golfo Dulce, shields Playa Zancudo from the Pacific Ocean. When we were there, the waves rolled in long and low, and with little force.
For $75 dollars per night and the option to self-cater, we felt the Teak House was an excellent deal. For an additional $15 dollars each way, Andrew will pick you up by boat in Golfito and return you the morning of your departure; there is a road but, like many roads in Costa Rica, we heard it’s rough and tough slogging. Boat is the primary source of transportation around here.
Playa Zancudo feels like Robinson Crusoe and is truly off the beaten track, even by Costa Rica standards. Yes, people come to Playa Zancudo to disappear from civilization, but the good thing is, there's plenty of local bars, restaurants and even a grocery store to get all your essentials. You don't have to eat out, but we ate several meals at Sol Y Mar (a five minute walk up the beach) and Bar Sussy and all meals were excellent. Sol Y Mar has a thriving pub life which hints at the civilized world you left behind, but few people wear shirts and you'll almost never see a cell phone.
Susan and Andrew were gracious hosts and booked us a trip to Santuario Silvestre de Osa, which is a “must do” for anyone visiting Cabinas Los Cocos. Not only do you get to see the beauty of the Golfo Dulce, but you also get up close and personal with the wild animals of the rainforest, all of which are rescued, rehabilitated and returned to the forest by a dedicated group of naturalists.
Some people complain about garbage on the beach and that the community should do a better job of clearing it up. I don’t necessarily think it’s up to the community; if every visitor to Zancudo picked up a few items of garbage, it would help keep the place clean. It’s not really that bad, as the tide washes all the rubbish and flotsam towards the back of the beach, near the tree line, leaving the actual beach virtually spotless and smooth. You can walk for several hundred metres on Playa Zancudo before seeing another footprint.
Playa Zancudo is famous for it’s sunsets because across the Golfo Dulce cumulonimbus billow over Corcovado almost every day, and provide a colourful backdrop in the evening. Star-gazers will love the fact there’s little light to pollute the night sky. The weather was always warm, but a persistent breeze kept us comfortable, even at night and with only a ceiling fan.
Many people we spoke to come back to Playa Zancudo every year, because they’re sick of resorts, crowds and overt tourism, so the trick is to keep Playa Zancudo from over-developing. Some long-term residents already notice an uptick in visitors and some even feel Playa Zancudo is loosing its soul, becoming too commercialized. That’s hard to imagine, because there’s few places in the world where you can walk a three-mile long beach not see another soul for two of those miles. So consider Playa Zancudo and the Teak Cabin if you want comfortable accommodations just off a largely deserted beach, just bring along a volleyball to keep you company.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC